本文主要研究内容
作者郗玥(2019)在《骆马毛纤维性能研究及产品开发》一文中研究指出:随着近年来,我国进出口羊毛数量庞大,消费市场具有极大的潜力,却在毛纺原料进口供应量上受到限制。特种毛纺织纤维逐渐活跃在我们的视野当中,骆马毛就是其中之一,骆马毛是来自于南美洲的特种毛纺原料,在南美洲拥有着悠久的纺织应用历史,近几年成为毛纺行业中炙手可热的原料之一。骆马作为安第斯驼科中的一种,和我们熟悉的阿尔帕卡羊驼并非同一物种,纤维性能存在明显差异,更有甚者将骆马毛和羊驼毛混为一谈,而截至目前为止国家标准委员会也并没有对此进行明确的区分。因此,本文工作的主要宗旨就是通过研究骆马毛的纤维性能,对比羊驼、羊绒纤维性能来区分羊驼毛和骆马毛,并对骆马毛混纺纱的工艺和纱线性能加以设计和研究,进行骆马毛混纺面料的开发和性能测试。在纤维性能研究过程中,将骆马毛分别与山羊绒、羊驼毛进行性能对比研究,羊驼毛选取了3种不同的样本,分别为羊驼幼驼毛、羊驼毛和苏力羊驼毛。研究了这5种纤维的表观结构和物理机械性能:相比于羊驼毛,骆马毛纤维的鳞片包裹纤维轴向更紧密;相比于羊绒,骆马毛纤维鳞片更薄,包裹平整光滑,赋予纤维天然光泽;骆马毛纤维的细度和断裂强度介于羊绒和羊驼毛之间,细度媲美羊绒,但强力远超羊绒,为2.15cN/dtex;骆马毛弹性回复性能和摩擦性能优于其他动物纤维。在混纺纱设计和开发中,参照骆马毛纤维的性能特点开发出两款骆马毛和澳洲丝光羊毛混纺纱,混纺比分别为70/30(骆马毛/羊毛)和55/45(骆马毛/羊毛),并对混纺纱的性能进行了测试。两种混纺纱在耐磨、强力和毛羽等方面也独具特点,骆马毛含量较高的混纺纱表面更加光洁,短毛羽较少,纤维条干更好;骆马毛含量较低的混纺纱表面更具绒毛感,摩擦性能较好,纱线体积较大,更为蓬松。可根据织物风格需求选择适合的混纺比进行产品开发。混纺面料设计和开发中,采用八枚五飞纬面加强缎纹的织物组织结构,经纱采用80/20(羊毛/锦纶)混纺纱,增强织物结构,纬纱使用设计的两种不同混纺比的骆马毛混纺纱。经过设计,混纺织物的混纺比分别为,50/45/5(骆马毛/羊毛/锦纶)和65/30/5(骆马毛/羊毛/锦纶)。下机后的织物正面经过纬向拉毛、剪毛整理,生产出的织物为单面长顺毛织物,可用于制作冬季大衣面料。面料软糯丰盈,悬垂度好,富有光泽,绒毛面向外有天然皮草质感,平整面朝内,提升穿着舒适。通过用一系列织物性能测试,包括织物表观的物理机械性能、热湿舒适性能、外观及尺寸保持性能和织物风格。骆马毛含量较高的混纺织物表面毛绒更加柔顺有指向性,光泽度好,但浅色容易露底;骆马毛含量较低的混纺面料表面绒感较强,织物丰满绒密。
Abstract
sui zhao jin nian lai ,wo guo jin chu kou yang mao shu liang pang da ,xiao fei shi chang ju you ji da de qian li ,que zai mao fang yuan liao jin kou gong ying liang shang shou dao xian zhi 。te chong mao fang zhi qian wei zhu jian huo yue zai wo men de shi ye dang zhong ,jia ma mao jiu shi ji zhong zhi yi ,jia ma mao shi lai zi yu na mei zhou de te chong mao fang yuan liao ,zai na mei zhou yong you zhao you jiu de fang zhi ying yong li shi ,jin ji nian cheng wei mao fang hang ye zhong zhi shou ke re de yuan liao zhi yi 。jia ma zuo wei an di si tuo ke zhong de yi chong ,he wo men shou xi de a er pa ka yang tuo bing fei tong yi wu chong ,qian wei xing neng cun zai ming xian cha yi ,geng you shen zhe jiang jia ma mao he yang tuo mao hun wei yi tan ,er jie zhi mu qian wei zhi guo jia biao zhun wei yuan hui ye bing mei you dui ci jin hang ming que de ou fen 。yin ci ,ben wen gong zuo de zhu yao zong zhi jiu shi tong guo yan jiu jia ma mao de qian wei xing neng ,dui bi yang tuo 、yang rong qian wei xing neng lai ou fen yang tuo mao he jia ma mao ,bing dui jia ma mao hun fang sha de gong yi he sha xian xing neng jia yi she ji he yan jiu ,jin hang jia ma mao hun fang mian liao de kai fa he xing neng ce shi 。zai qian wei xing neng yan jiu guo cheng zhong ,jiang jia ma mao fen bie yu shan yang rong 、yang tuo mao jin hang xing neng dui bi yan jiu ,yang tuo mao shua qu le 3chong bu tong de yang ben ,fen bie wei yang tuo you tuo mao 、yang tuo mao he su li yang tuo mao 。yan jiu le zhe 5chong qian wei de biao guan jie gou he wu li ji xie xing neng :xiang bi yu yang tuo mao ,jia ma mao qian wei de lin pian bao guo qian wei zhou xiang geng jin mi ;xiang bi yu yang rong ,jia ma mao qian wei lin pian geng bao ,bao guo ping zheng guang hua ,fu yu qian wei tian ran guang ze ;jia ma mao qian wei de xi du he duan lie jiang du jie yu yang rong he yang tuo mao zhi jian ,xi du pi mei yang rong ,dan jiang li yuan chao yang rong ,wei 2.15cN/dtex;jia ma mao dan xing hui fu xing neng he ma ca xing neng you yu ji ta dong wu qian wei 。zai hun fang sha she ji he kai fa zhong ,can zhao jia ma mao qian wei de xing neng te dian kai fa chu liang kuan jia ma mao he ao zhou si guang yang mao hun fang sha ,hun fang bi fen bie wei 70/30(jia ma mao /yang mao )he 55/45(jia ma mao /yang mao ),bing dui hun fang sha de xing neng jin hang le ce shi 。liang chong hun fang sha zai nai mo 、jiang li he mao yu deng fang mian ye du ju te dian ,jia ma mao han liang jiao gao de hun fang sha biao mian geng jia guang jie ,duan mao yu jiao shao ,qian wei tiao gan geng hao ;jia ma mao han liang jiao di de hun fang sha biao mian geng ju rong mao gan ,ma ca xing neng jiao hao ,sha xian ti ji jiao da ,geng wei peng song 。ke gen ju zhi wu feng ge xu qiu shua ze kuo ge de hun fang bi jin hang chan pin kai fa 。hun fang mian liao she ji he kai fa zhong ,cai yong ba mei wu fei wei mian jia jiang duan wen de zhi wu zu zhi jie gou ,jing sha cai yong 80/20(yang mao /jin guan )hun fang sha ,zeng jiang zhi wu jie gou ,wei sha shi yong she ji de liang chong bu tong hun fang bi de jia ma mao hun fang sha 。jing guo she ji ,hun fang zhi wu de hun fang bi fen bie wei ,50/45/5(jia ma mao /yang mao /jin guan )he 65/30/5(jia ma mao /yang mao /jin guan )。xia ji hou de zhi wu zheng mian jing guo wei xiang la mao 、jian mao zheng li ,sheng chan chu de zhi wu wei chan mian chang shun mao zhi wu ,ke yong yu zhi zuo dong ji da yi mian liao 。mian liao ruan nuo feng ying ,xuan chui du hao ,fu you guang ze ,rong mao mian xiang wai you tian ran pi cao zhi gan ,ping zheng mian chao nei ,di sheng chuan zhao shu kuo 。tong guo yong yi ji lie zhi wu xing neng ce shi ,bao gua zhi wu biao guan de wu li ji xie xing neng 、re shi shu kuo xing neng 、wai guan ji che cun bao chi xing neng he zhi wu feng ge 。jia ma mao han liang jiao gao de hun fang zhi wu biao mian mao rong geng jia rou shun you zhi xiang xing ,guang ze du hao ,dan jian se rong yi lou de ;jia ma mao han liang jiao di de hun fang mian liao biao mian rong gan jiao jiang ,zhi wu feng man rong mi 。
论文参考文献
论文详细介绍
论文作者分别是来自东华大学的郗玥,发表于刊物东华大学2019-09-23论文,是一篇关于骆马毛论文,羊驼毛论文,安第斯驼论文,纤维性能论文,东华大学2019-09-23论文的文章。本文可供学术参考使用,各位学者可以免费参考阅读下载,文章观点不代表本站观点,资料来自东华大学2019-09-23论文网站,若本站收录的文献无意侵犯了您的著作版权,请联系我们删除。
标签:骆马毛论文; 羊驼毛论文; 安第斯驼论文; 纤维性能论文; 东华大学2019-09-23论文;